We are back with a few fashion tidbits, as well as our poll asking for your vote on the ensemble Kate wore during the tour that you liked the most.
First, a followup to a topic raised in comments and on social media regarding ‘resort’ collections. This was prompted by references to the Alexander McQueen dress Kate wore for Tuesday’s Team GB reception as coming from the label’s “Resort” collection. (I should more accurately describe the frock as “based on a dress from that collection,” or as “made with fabric used for other pieces in that collection.”)
For decades “resort”collections, also called “cruise collections,” were just what they sound like: upscale clothing and accessories appropriate for warmer climes, purchased by those fortunate enough to be escaping the winter blahs. The collections generally were in-store in October, featuring styles in lighter weight fabrics and brighter color palettes. But as the popularity of ‘fast fashion’ goods offered by H&M, Topshop and Zara has grown, so has shoppers’ appetites for “buy now, wear now” merchandise.
These days pre-spring and pre-fall collections generate far more revenue for fashion houses and retailers than the standard “spring” and “fall” collections do. Pre-collection merchandise is on the selling floor for a longer period of time than items from the spring/summer and autumn/winter collections, and as a rule, markdowns are not taken as quickly for the pre-collections as they are for spring and fall merchandise. The pre-collections provide fresh editorial fodder for fashion sites and magazines, and offer consumers transitional clothing that can usually be worn when it is purchased.
The Alexander McQueen dress the Duchess wore in Canada is modified from a piece in the pre-spring 2017 collection.
As is the dress worn Tuesday night. The piece in the center showcases the same poppy motif as seen in Kate’s dress, but in a different color and fabric.
One element adding to the confusion: the different terms used to refer to the collections. Alexander McQueen uses “Pre-spring/summer 2017,” while US Vogue calls it the Resort 2017 collection, British Vogue‘s term for the same collection is “Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2017 Resort Collection” and French Vogue says “Cruise 2017.”
A number of fashion houses still stage cruise or resort runway shows, some of them spectacular events. Below, a scene from the Chanel Cruise 2017 show, held in May of this year.
The American fashion press who flew into Cuba for the Chanel Resort show landed two hours before the first U.S. cruise ship to have docked in Havana in nearly 40 years.
Seven hundred guests of Chanel were taken to the open-air street show in a multicolored convoy of the city’s open-top Buicks, Cadillacs, and Oldsmobiles.
The cruise/resort collections haven’t gone away. As noted by Vogue, “It was Chanel that started the new lark of traveling Resort shows—immersive summertime trips to evermore far-flung locations—and Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Gucci have been joining in.” To the contrary, the collections have become larger. But the type of merchandise carried in the collections has changed significantly, with stores offering a broader range of clothing and accessories; in many cases the name has changed from “resort” or “cruise” to “pre-spring.”
Next, our Favorite Look Poll from the Canada tour. In this case we’re asking for you to vote based on the totality of the outfit, not just an individual piece.
For the family’s arrival in Canada Kate was in a blue ensemble, anchored by a Jenny Packham dress. The Duchess accessorized with a Sylvia Fletcher for Lock and Company hat that showcased a maple leaf motif, along with her Nina hard-sided clutch from LK Bennett and Gianvito Rossi signature suede pumps (we show them at Net-a-Porter, they are also available in most sizes at My Theresa). We also saw the Queen’s platinum and diamond maple leaf brooch, worn by Kate during the 2011 tour, and the tanzanite earrings believed to be by G. Collins & Sons.
For the first full day of the tour Kate wore a red and white Alexander McQueen dress, based on a Resort 2017 (aka pre-spring) design. She carried a new handbag from a new brand, the Bow Embellished Suede Shoulder Bag by Miu Miu. The Duchess also wore a new pair of heels, the Russell and Bromley PinPoint. Kate’s earrings turned out to be a pair loaned to her by the Queen, also worn at least once by Sophie, Countess of Wessex. (Kate wore them a second time when visiting the Netherlands.)
Kate wore several new pieces when visiting the rainforest: Holland and Holland’s Lightweight Multipocket Safari Jacket; Topshop’s Gingham Print Shirt in Navy; a Jigsaw cashmere sweater, the “Katherine” style; and a pair of Large Kite earrings by Pippa Small. Kate also wore her Penelope Chilvers Long Tassel Boot.
For the trip’s most formal event, a reception at Government House, the Duchess wore a vibrant red dress by British luxury label Preen, the Finella style. Kate carried a red calf-hair clutch by Jenny Packham we’d not seen previously, and wore Gianvito Rossi signature pumps in red. She wore the Queen’s maple leaf brooch again, and her Soru Baroque Double-Sided Pearl Earrings.
For engagements in Kelowna Kate was in another new frock, a bespoke version of the Pocket Watch Dress by Dolce and Gabbana. She accessorized with her Nina clutch from LK Bennett and the retailer’s Fern pumps. For jewelry she wore new earrings by Monica Vinader, the designer’s ‘Siren’ green onyx drops.
Following the engagements in Kelowna Kate and William flew to Whitehorse, Yukon, where it was much colder. For the evening airport arrival Kate wore her ‘Persephone coat by Hobbs, first seen on St. Patrick’s Day 2014. Her jewelry and accessories remained the same, with the addition of a Maple Leaf cotton scarf/shawl by York Scarves, available from Amazon UK.
For engagements in Whitehorse the next day the Duchess debuted a new coat from a new designer, CH Carolina Herrera. There was also a new pair of heels, the Tod’s Fringed Leather Pumps. Kate carried her Mulberry Bayswater clutch in conker suede and the Maple Leaf Tartan scarf seen the previous night. She wore her Annoushka Pearl Drops and Kiki McDonough Diamond Hoops for the first time on the trip.
The Duke and Duchess changed to more casual attire for the afternoon’s events. Kate wore a new piece by Canada’s Sentaler brand, the Wrap Coat with Ribbed Sleeves ($920, backordered with shipping anticipated in March, 2017). She also had on a new pair of earrings from local jeweler Shelley MacDonald, the artisan’s Large Bronze Ulu design, available on Ms. MacDonald’s ‘Shelley Silversmith’ etsy shop ($73.96). (The jeweler is currently offering free shipping with promo code KATEEFFECT1.) Kate’s boots were a new pair by R. Soles, very similar to the pair worn for the Calgary Stampede in 2011. This style is the Virgi Chocolate Suede, described by the company as a “revised version of our infamous Virgi Setter.” (£295, with shipping expected by November 24.)
Midweek brought the eagerly awaited children’s party and a Victorian-inspired dress from See by Chloé, the label’s Pointelle Knit Cotton Blend Dress. The Duchess paired the dress with Acne Studio’s Leather Belt and the Monsoon Fleur wedges that were first seen on the India/Bhutan tour. For jewelry Kate wore her Lauren earrings from Kiki McDonough.
The next day’s engagements in Haida Gwaii brought two fairly different outfits, so we have separated them for purposes of the poll. The first ensemble featured a new jacket from Canada’s Smythe Les Vests, the “The Duchess jacket” in ‘army green.’ (We show it at Saks where it is $595 with an expected shipping date of January, 2017.) Essentially identical to Kate’s navy jacket by Smythe, the piece is 100% wool with that same distinctive cutout on the back. Under the jacket Kate wore the ‘Spot Pretty Blouse’ in ivory from the Somerset by Alice Temperley collection sold only at John Lewis. Her jeans are believed to be the Zara Skinny Mid-rise Trousers in khaki ($39.90). Accessories included the R. Soles boots described above, Kate’s Kiki McDonough Citrine Pear Drop Earrings and a headband that hasn’t yet been identified.
For a fishing trip that afternoon Kate put on a sweater by Really Wild, the Cashmere Mix Cable Crew, a 30 % cashmere/70% merino wool blend with cable detailing on the front. She wore another new brand, Troy London, sporting the label’s Wax Summer Parka in khaki (£350). The earrings and denim trousers remained the same, but Kate switched her headband/Alice band to the animal print worn several times this summer.
The final day of the tour saw Kate in a new casual ensemble featuring a Zara jacket thought to be from a 2015 collection and the H&M top worn when visiting the Isles of Scilly. The Duchess wore a new pair of shoes by J. Crew, a block heel style called the the Avery in a cotton tweed fabric with shades of brown, red and blue. Jewelry included the Asprey Woodland Charms necklace and Annoushka Pearl Drops with Kiki McDonough Diamond Hoops.
For an afternoon on the water the Duchess changed into her Troy London parka and what looks like the Jigsaw ‘Katherine’ cashmere sweater seen earlier in the week, along with a pair of Superga 2750 Classic sneakers in white cotton canvas. The shoes are available at Superga in a broad selection of sizes ($65); at Bloomingdale’s in most sizes ($65); and at Lord & Taylor in all sizes ($64.95).
Kate chose an elegant off-white coat by Catherine Walker for the family’s departure from the Victoria Harbour seaplane terminal. The piece showcased a fitted bodice and slightly flared skirt, off-center front closure, and accent trim on the collar, pocket flaps and seams. Kate wore the Queen’s maple leaf brooch once again, along with her Annoushka Pearl Drops with Kiki McDonough Diamond Hoops. Kate wore her Floret pumps in the ‘trench’ color from LK Bennett (we show them at LK Bennett, but the style is also available at Nordstrom, as well as Shopbop).
Finally this evening, a few notes about the upcoming Netflix series The Crown, starting November 4th.
More from Deadline.
What Netflix execs have called their most expensive series to date, The Crown…focuses on Queen Elizabeth II as a 25-year-old newlywed faced with the daunting prospect of leading the world’s most famous monarchy while forging a relationship with legendary Prime Minister, Sir Winston Churchill.
From a story in The Telegraph:
It’s not just the story of a family, it’s the story of post-War Britain,” says The Crown’s director Stephen Daldry in a new making-of featurette, released this week.
One reason many of us are excited about the series: the costumes from designer Michele Clapton.
This week there was a runway show in London with costume designer Michelle Clapton, it featured styles seen in the series.
Emily Nash of Hello! shared photos from the runway presentation; I have married a few to the corresponding photo from the series.
This is one of the Princess Margaret costumes.
More from Vogue:
The thought that Her Majesty and her family might be watching “is slightly nerve-racking,” admitted Michele Clapton, as she was giving a preview “salon presentation” of her costumes…
The Crown, based on fact, had to be scrupulously accurate to the period, which in season one covers the 1940s and the 1950s. Correct costuming has its own primary role in enabling the actors to inhabit their characters, she says.
From the Netflix description.
Prepare to be welcomed into the coveted world of power and privilege and behind locked doors in Westminster and Buckingham Palace….the leaders of an empire await.
There is a photo-laden Pop Sugar story on the costumes available here; a Vogue story about the costumes is here; The Telegraph’s “The Crown: all you need to know about Netflix’s £100 million series” is here; a feature with a look at the costumes seen at the runway presentation is here; ,
Here is the official trailer for the series.
We leave you with a video showcasing the costumes in the series.