We are back with a few fashion-related updates, as well as a look at Prince Harry’s Invictus Games, as they are being called.
We begin with word that there really isn’t any news about how the Duchess is doing. Following last Monday’s announcement of her second pregnancy and accompanying illness Kate’s immediate engagements were canceled with the exception of Wednesday night’s Invictus Games Opening Ceremony. Unfortunately that also had to be canceled because the Duchess was simply too ill to attend. At this point she continues being treated at Kensington Palace. The Malta trip remains a question mark, Palace officials will announce this Wednesday whether or not Kate is able to make the trip. (My gut instinct is she will not be able to go to Malta and officials need the time to decide which royal will go in her place.)
It is that odd time of year when it is just beginning to get colder and the runway styles being shown are for warmer temps. Designers are now showing their spring/summer 2015 collections: New York Fashion Week concluded last Thursday and London FW kicked off on Friday. As one might expect, there’s plenty of discussion about which styles could work for Kate with a focus on those that might make brilliant maternity wear.
Kate-favorite Jenny Packham shows in New York, she posted photos from her runway show on her Facebook page. Her inspiration for the spring collection was Marilyn Monroe.
Jenny Packham Courtesy Photo
More from Style.com’s review of the show:
“It’s blatantly Marilyn Monroe,” Jenny Packham said of her Spring muse. “She’s been there all my life, but I’ve rediscovered her again.” The designer took her research quite seriously this season, poring over images, visiting Monroe’s bungalow at the Beverly Hills Hotel, even traveling to Jersey to glimpse a private collection of Monroe’s dresses. “She’s still so relevant,” said Packham. “What she wore doesn’t date.”
From the designer’s Facebook page: “Shimmering gold lamé inspired by this season’s muse Marilyn Monroe.”
Back to Style.com:
The palms showed up again on a print that more directly referenced the wallpaper. Packham used it to cover a ball gown, and it looked a little too busy. On the other hand, a long-sleeve boatneck gown in gold lamé offered just enough shimmer. It felt very Marilyn.
From the Fug Girls review:
This show was a gorgeous treat — interestingly, some of the dresses I loved in person didn’t photograph as well, and ones I felt neutral about look fab on film. Regardless, just let it wash over you and bring you joy.
The separates in this collection were exceptionally done, with beautifully placed prints and elegant embellishments; not anything I expect to see on Kate, but very, very pretty. In looking at the day dresses, as well as the evening gowns, one sees quite a few pieces that could work well for the Duchess.
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Moving on to London, Erdem’s runway show was this afternoon.
From the Women’s Wear Daily review:
London designers are mad for busy botanical prints this season, including Erdem Moralioglu, who is as familiar with the contents of a greenhouse as he is with the best guipure lace Europe has to offer.
His ideas came together beautifully on the runway, flanked by tropical plants in the vacated, stripped-down Selfridges hotel.
The Telegraph’s Kate Finnigan lauded the spring designs:
Erdem is at his best when he embraces those things that we first fell in love with him for: frocks, lace, romance, edgy femininity and history. And gosh, did he embrace them with this heart-stopping collection. Yes, I’m a fan, but this really was platinum-standard.
Back to the WWD review:
Moralioglu has dibs on fragile femininity, and this collection was true to his aesthetic — and superbly executed.
Standouts included tiered gowns in broderie anglaise and plunging cocktail dresses in black organza flecked with fronds.
It is more challenging to find pieces in this collection that would suit the Duchess’s style. If lined, the broderie anglaise dresses could work; the edgier white lace dress above right would become a stunning evening gown. The styles are elegant and edgy and that renders the majority of them unsuitable for Kate.
A reminder about previous pieces from the designer she has worn. Below you see the Duchess wearing the dark blue Jacquinta dress in Canada during the 2011 tour, on the right she wears a grey Erdem frock for Trooping the Colour in 2012.
Canadian Heritage/Erdem/Canadian Heritage/Spalsh News/Splash News
From left to right the Duchess wears the green ‘Allie’ coat, the ‘Cecile’ lace dress and a modified version of a spring/summer 2012 dress.
Splash News/Splash News/Splash News
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Our final collection is Temperley London. The two styles below offer insight into the collection’s primary themes: a lighter, more relaxed aesthetic and menswear influences. Alice Temperley noted, “We are embracing a very cool and relaxed vibe for summer for a full day-to-evening look.”
The front row was packed with notables. From left to right: Amber le Bon wearing the Long Tailored Merino Skirt and Marais Pintuck Shirt from Spring ’15; Emilia Fox is in the Winter ’14 Bonita Dress; in the center photo Alice Eve sports the Fleur Dress from Pre Fall ’14; Anna Friel is in another Spring ’15 design, the Klara Jumpsuit; on the far right Portia Freeman is wearing the Long Josette Skirt from Spring ’15.
We begin with three looks for next spring in a very pretty pink.
And two more.
All of the trade publications took notice of the brand’s evolution. From Style.com‘s review
There were far more relaxed jackets and matching trousers than evening gowns on Temperley London’s runway today, and that ratio signifies a welcome new direction for the brand.
As British Vogue noted on Twitter, it is a “fresh new take from Temperley London.”
More about the evolving direction from the collection notes.
Suiting is a key focus for Summer 2015, soft sculptured lines, layered to create an effortless silhouette with femininity accentuated by rich jacquards, beautifully ornate detail and fresh colours.
Alice Temperley spoke directly to those things influencing her design decisions for the collection, more from Style.
“A woman has needs,” offered Temperley backstage. “She needs to get up and go to work in something like what I have on,” she added, gesturing to her own gray suit and scarf ensemble…”
The collection included styles with a nautical influence, red coral prints were bordered by blue nautical rope.
Grazia Daily spoke with the designer about the shift in focus:
“Now I’ve got no diffusion lines, my personal style is more like what goes out on the catwalk.”
“I’m so enjoying it and my team. I’d wear everything on the runway and I’m so happy with it. I think the attitude’s much more fresh, it’s a kind of new beginning” she said.
More from the show notes:
For the first time on the runway, tailored separates are paired with exclusive Temperley lace-up trainers in the season’s key prints, giving the collection a younger, more relaxed attitude.
A better look at the sneakers, as modeled by Alice Temperley.
The spring collection will be available online and in-store beginning in November, the summer collection in January.
- The New York Observer has an excellent interview with Jenny Packham. Topics include why she shows in New York as opposed to London, distinctions between American and British style, and what prompted her to say “I just want to design beautiful dresses.”
- Us Weekly has done a slide show with five Jenny Packham gowns they would like to see Kate wear while she’s expecting. They have even photoshopped Kate’s head into the pictures (ahem), you can see the feature here.
- The Telegraph has a slideshow here of Kate in all of the Alexander McQueen styles she has worn
A word about a topic that is unrelated to Kate’s wardrobe: the Invictus Games. They launched as planned last Wednesday. Below you see Prince Harry at the podium during the Opening Ceremony.
These really were ‘Harry’s Games,’ it was a huge effort on his part, and they were a remarkable success. Several other nations have asked to host the Games in the future. Last night’s Closing Ceremony was a sellout.
The evening’s entertainment included music from James Blunt (a former Household Cavalry officer), the Foo Fighters, and Elle Goulding. More from The Telegraph’s story about the ceremony:
Wheelchairs and crutches were a conspicuous presence, para-athletes greeted with a warmth and inclusiveness our society perhaps doesn’t always show the differently abled. Performers, who also included Ryan Adams, Bryan Adams, The Vamps, Rizzle Kicks and James Blunt, may have appealed to very different tastes but this was the kind of concert where the occasion was more significant than the stars and audience and performers alike were were keen to show their appreciation.
“Prince Harry, this song is for you,” announced James Blunt before launching into his tremulous ballad You’re Beautiful.
Below we see Mr. Blunt performing.
From People magazine’s story.
Harry said the games had “shone a spotlight on the unconquerable character of servicemen and women and their families – their Invictus spirit.”
And he paused to remember those who could not be there.
“Many of us here this evening have friends who paid the ultimate sacrifice and are no longer with us,” he said. “We want to take a moment to remember them.”
The scene onstage.
Sergeant Paul Randall RLC, Crown copyright
The US Team being thanked by the crowd. It was after seeing the Wounded Warrior games in Colorado last year that Harry had the idea for the Invictus Games.
Owen Cooban, Crown copyright
Back to the People story:
During the five-hour show, every competitor was given medallions, with Second Lady Dr. Jill Biden handing out the honors to the American team. The British armed forces team received its from doctors, nurses and specialists who help wounded warriors get over their injuries.
The British Army Twitter Feed
LINKAGE:
- Visit the Invictus Games website here, the Facebook page is here
- To see all of the Temperley London summer 2015 styles, click here
- To watch the Jenny Packham catwalk show, click here
- To see all of the Orla Kiely show photos click here
- To see all of the Erdem runway looks, click here
Prue
Wednesday 17th of September 2014
Enjoyed the post, but all those busy-busy materials made my eyes ache :D
What really impacted was the importance of what is worn on the feet. No matter how gorgeous and alluring the outfit, I can be really put off the whole by the footwear. Have seen Kate in things which look wonderful but have not given them a second glance on a model. Or perhaps it's the models' generally grim visages which send me scurrying away?
Harry is wonderful, isn't he? He definitely seems a good egg.
Callie
Wednesday 17th of September 2014
I have been buying Temperley for years, and I am dismayed by the "new direction." Who needs menswear? As a professional, I spend a lot of energy trying NOT to look like one of the boys, or a feminized version of one of the boys. No thank you.
Nancy Robertson
Tuesday 16th of September 2014
I hope Kate feels better soon, and I look forward to seeing her on these pages again. Harry should go to Malta in Kate's place. The birthday boy is very popular and a wonderful ambassador for the UK these days
ElizaMo
Tuesday 16th of September 2014
Thanks for such a magnificent feast of fashion, Susan!
I feel the Packham offerings don’t sit well with those prints, the palm trees look to be getting somewhat out of control. The boatneck gold lame works nicely, and is safely conservative, not going to rock any boats, which might well bring it into Kate’s sights. I suppose Packham tends to be a play-it-safe and play-it-pretty brand.
The Erdem prints work better for me, I find them more in keeping, I think they serve the outfits well. The textures, fabrics and prints are original but not overly outlandish, and work ok in the context of the shapes used. However I would have to exclude the tiered broderie anglaise – the overall effect of a fishing net counts as my idea of a design mistake.
Temperley has had quite a makeover, there, in this post it looks like Erdem manages more fussiness than her which is definitely a turnaround. I love the looser shapes and better defined prints plus a wider colour palette. I mean, at least we’re not exclusively black-and-white here.
And our worthy warrior, Harry. At risk of going off-topic I noticed that Cressida Bonas has emerged into the open once again at the Invictus event, and betting odds are apparently narrowing fast on the possibility of them getting back together. I’ve been watching her over the summer, largely as I hope it might take some pressure off Kate if Harry got himself a partner.
I have to admit from the moment Cressie stepped out in a Stella evening gown, in the exact same shade Kate had used, while also holding hands with her royal friend Princess Eugenie, I had a feeling that Cressie was embarking on a summer of getting used to handling the press on her own before maybe chumming up with Harry again.
And sure enough she has been stepping out in an array of new outfits, gradually smartening up in her own way, changing hairstyles, coordinating colours, styles and accessories with skill. But I’m tired of the messy hair and the aristocrat-attempting-rebel mode of dress, with endless clunky footwear. I guess there could never be another Kate, but I’d be sorry to see quite such a casual approach feature in royal outings, especially if that ended up on parade next to our lovely, conscientious Duchess!
Lili
Monday 15th of September 2014
Wow, this is a lot of material on which to comment: three Fashion Week shows involving designers the Duchess likes AND the Invictus Games.
Possibly a bit much in one post? I'm feeling a little overwhelmed.
However, I'll gamely tackle the fashion (one cannot criticize at all the Games themselves; bravo Prince Harry!):
The Packham offerings mostly didn't excite me, but that one, belted evening dress at right -- apparently in gold lame? -- had me swooning. That's the only real screen siren item in the collection, and I think I'd prefer to see it in, say, various shades of panne velvet, not gold lame. But, my God, IS it gorgeous!
"Botanical" does seem to be the current direction, and I bought a fabulous Ted Baker dress last spring that reflects that trend. (TB is doing darker botanicals for fall right now.) Normally, however, I am not a great print/embellishment fan. I loved the silhouette of the dress at right in the first row of Erdem designs -- fabulous sleek lines - but the very heavy jungle vines and leaves are -- well, artistically interesting but perhaps too much for actual wear. And I suspect that workmanship would be too costly.
Temperley -- well, everyone knows how I feel about Temperley -- too much embellishment and embroidery, always.
But I do like the pastel trenches with the sleeves pushed up. A favorite casual look for me since the late 70's.
admin
Monday 15th of September 2014
You're spot on about it all being a bit much, I actually edited out two other show reviews, if you can believe it! The next post will be mercifully briefer. :)