We are back with a few updates, including spring styles from Alexander McQueen, a look at Emilia Wickstead’s fall collection, but first we share several news updates. Our first comes via the office of New Zealand’s Governor-General.
More accurately, the news comes via the Governor-General’s Twitter feed. As noted on the screen grab shown above, a listing will be released next Monday of the best places to see the Duke and Duchess while they’re in New Zealand. The list will be on the Governor-General’s Facebook page, and the Twitter account will also offer the information.
The last offering under the contemporary line – which first launched in 2010 – will stay in stores until autumn/winter 2014.
“It makes sense to provide a consistent offering under one brand, Temperley London,” Temperley told us this morning. “This is the core of our business and where our voice lies – beautiful clothes, fine attention to detail, novel and luxurious fabrics and sourcing.”
The Duchess has worn pieces from the ALICE line, notably on royal tours. Below left we see Kate in the ALICE by Temperley ‘Beatrice’ dress during the Jubilee Tour in 2012 and a blouse from the line at the 2011 Calgary Stampede parade.
Shortly after putting up a post on the WKW Facebook page with news about the ALICE brand several WKW friends noted they were recently asked to fill out a questionnaire from the company, with a significant portion of the survey involving prices. Hopefully we will continue to see pieces with the younger, edgier vibe as those in current ALICE by Temperley collections.
We have another Temperley tidbit, this one an interview with Alice Temperley in a Wall Street Journal story about fuller skirts becoming fashionable again. Reporter Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan turns to Alice Temperley for an insider’s perspective on how best to wear the style, the quotes below are from the designer.
This season’s skirts come in a range of lengths, and it’s important to adjust the level of volume accordingly, she says. Although it depends on the cut of the skirt, generally, the longer the skirt, the less poufy the shape should be.
If you’re petite, however, it’s best to keep the volume a little more subdued, she cautions. “If you’re really little, you can look like a doll,” she says. “You don’t want to look like a decoration on top of a wedding cake.”
Back to the article:
A flattering cut is essential, Ms. Temperley says. Because she has “a very rounded shape,” she says, a skirt that flares out right from the waistband wouldn’t work. Instead, she seeks pieces with a defined waist and yoke that offer “some fit and then flare out,” she says. That style “gives my waist and hips some shape.” For longer full skirts, Ms. Temperley likes cuts that are slightly fitted down through the hip and then flared out.
Click here to read the entire story in the Journal.
We move now to news about a New Zealand designer we thought the Duchess might enjoy wearing during the upcoming tour. We’re talking about Trelise Cooper, a label we showcased in this post. Actually, I should be referring to the gifted designer as Dame Trelise Cooper, she was invested as a Dame Companion of the New Zealand Order of Merit in a recent ceremony at Government House in Wellington. Government House is also where Kate, William and George will be staying for most of their time in Wellington. The designer and philanthropist is shown below with Governor-General Sir Jerry Mateparae after the ceremony.
The reason we’re sharing all of this? It turns out the coat worn by Ms. Cooper for the investiture ceremony is actually a design that the Duchess expressed interest in. More on the nude and neon pink piece from Fairfax NZ News:
The coat had caught Kate Middleton’s eye and been sent to London for her to try on, Dame Trelise said.
In the end the Duchess of Cambridge decided not to wear it while in New Zealand next month for a royal tour with Prince William and their son Prince George.
As noted by Ms. Cooper in the articlew, even though Kate won’t be wearing the coat, it did have an outing at Government House; you can read the entire story here. (BTW, I am not 100% convinced we won’t see Kate in a piece by Ms. Cooper.)
New spring fashions continue to arrive at retailers; it seemed timely to share fresh styles from one of Kate’s favorite designers, Alexander McQueen.
The Bandage Knit Mini Dress (above left) takes Kate’s appreciation for exposed seaming with frayed edges to an extreme. While the garment isn’t appropriate for Kate to wear as shown (too short and too snug), at least on official engagements, it does strike me as something she would find appealing. Above right, the Grid Jacquard Knit Pencil Dress is done in a rayon/poly blend. I don’t have as strong a feeling this would be something Kate would wear as I do with the bandage frock.
An item that caught my eye as soon as I saw it, the Utility Peplum Coat Dress in powder blue, we show it from different angles in an effort to demonstrate the different way the extra flaps are worn.
The Utility Peplum Coat Dress in black (below left) does not have a collar, nor does it have the upper ‘flaps,’ or peplum seen on the powder blue version. Below right, the Embroidered Neckline Pencil Dress; we include a closeup of the trim at the neckline, it is very ornate.
Also new this spring, Belted Pencil Dress in pale rose silk at Net-a-Porter, on the right it’s McQueen’s Spine Lace Flare dress. The latter is shown primarily for the fabric, a soft blue and cream jacquard that seems “very Kate”.
A few separates (left to right): Zip Detailed Crepe Jacket in black, red Cutout Crepe Column Gown, an Embossed Tailored Jacket in cream (it has an elegant raised print that is impossible to show on a computer monitor), a similar design in red, the Flared Hem Tailored Jacket, and the Pleated Crepe Mini Skirt in black.
Almost any of these would work for the Duchess, although several would require modification. I imagine we’ll see her in several Alexander McQueen pieces during the upcoming tour.
We move now to a look at Emilia Wickstead’s Fall 2014 collection. Last week Moda Operandi offered the opportunity to pre-order fall styles, providing a good look at what’s coming in the collection. Below left we show the Sleeveless Dress with Tuille (the model wears it with a turtleneck underneath) in a nubby black fabric. The Lace Dress with Peplum (below right) showcases blue lace atop nude crepe, the yoke and arms are sheer and the pencil skirt is split at the back.
Several more pieces from the collection (shown left to right): on our top row the Jacket with Crystals featuring lace and with pearl beaded trim on the front; the collarless Gray Boucle Jacket has a wrap front, flap breast pockets and rounded shoulders; the Wool Crepe Top in ‘clay’ is cropped and has an open back. Pieces in the second row are as follows: the Pencil Skirt with Crystals has a high waist and slight trumpet silhouette; a Sleeveless Blouse is organza done in a snake print motif; the Wrap Skirt in clay has a wrap front and high waist.
Our next group of designs includes another lace look, this one in Blue Crepe with Crystals, featuring a high neck and rhinestone/pearl bead embellishment; a Silver Jacquard Floral Dress in the center, and Organza Halter Dress with an open back.
Some of the detail work is lovely.
Our final group of styles: the short-sleeved Organza Dress and the long-sleeved Silk Organza Coat Dress with crystals, both done in a snake print seen throughout the collection; on the right, the Mock Neck Dress in ‘bobble fabric,’ (what I refer to as ‘nubby’ material).
Moda Operandi also posted an interview with the designer.
I wouldn’t be surprised to see Kate wearing Emilia Wickstead design when she steps off the plane in Wellington.
We continue our series of reports on designers with strong New Zealand or Australian ties that Kate may find appealing, starting with Andrea Moore. The company is known for its bold colors and prints, as well as structured designs.
The brand launched in 1999 when Ms. Moore opened her first shop in Wellington; the brand now has 5 freestanding stores. Ms. Moore continues at the helm of the business along with her business/life partner, Brian Molloy. Below, multiple ensembles worn to race events in Auckland earlier this month.
All garments are made in New Zealand. For anyone curious about shopping at Andrea Moore, the company does ship to the US.
Another New Zealand designer: WORLD. The avant-garde label was launched in 1989 by Denise L’Estrange-Corbet and her partner Francis Hooper. In addition to apparel the company also offers beauty and home fragrance merchandise.
Kiwi fashion followers might look at the designs shown above and say (understandably), “Those pieces can’t possibly be from WORLD, they’re much too tame.” It’s an assertion based in fact, for the brand is edgy, cheeky and very hip. The brand’s full name is WORLD Factory of Ideas and Experiments.
In addition to the womenswear and beauty collections, WORLD also does a menswear line.
Our final designer offering garments in styles that would work with Kate’s design aesthetic: Kate Sylvester.
The company was launched in 1993; more from the brand’s website:
New Zealand designer Kate Sylvester’s conceptual collections embody intelligence, witty irreverence, sophistication and modern femininity.
Kate Sylvester consciously designs for herself and her fiercely loyal client’s lifestyles. These are real clothes for real life.
More dress designs below: on the left we show the Odile dress in a very pale Blush, and also in Ink. On the right we show the Venetia in silk (with a touch of spandex for stretch and ease of movement), the colors are Dusk and Black. The tailoring and fabric volume on the Odile are somewhat reminiscent of Emilia Wickstead frocks.
More on the company’s growth from Britomart, a shopping and business district in Auckland:
Today there are Kate Sylvester stores in New Zealand and Australia and her designs are sold at high fashion boutiques in Australasia, France and the US. The brand has an established sustainability policy, including a commitment to onshore production and an expanding stable of ethical and organic fabric options. Kate Sylvester is a past winner of a National Sustainable Business Network Award.
The collections are sophisticated and wearable, built around timeless pieces that transcend the seasons and the latest trends. Kate describes her customer as a woman ‘smart enough to know that it’s far more provocative and stylish to be subtly sexy and have a sense of humour about dressing up’.
Below, images from this year’s advertising campaign.
The primary Kate Sylvester line is accompanied by a diffusion label called simply Sylvester, with its younger, grittier vibe. Below, styles from the Sylvester line, including a look second from the left on Lauren, a Kate Sylvester store manager, she is wearing the Sylvester Tough dress.
Below, a runway collection.
You can learn more about the designer in a New Zealand Herald Q&A piece from 2013.
Our thanks to Tiffany from the WKW Facebook page for her tip on several designers, including WORLD. We also appreciate Marianne’s input, she suggested we consider Kate Sylvester as a possible designer.